There is no just one tomato
In the age-old debate among botanists and cooks about whether it’s ultimately a vegetable or a fruit, I believe the answer isn’t really that important. If it’s delicious and high-quality, it deserves a place on your table. With a sprinkle of salt or a dip in the sea, it can even serve as a light meal on its own on sweltering summer days. Our neighbors in Italy have made it a cornerstone of their cuisine, their signature ingredient, even though it’s not their most traditional; until the early 19th century, it was considered poisonous in Europe. Yet, it’s impossible to imagine Greek cuisine without tomatoes, and we have them in abundance and of high quality.
There are countless varieties of tomatoes. In fact, it’s estimated that there are over 10,000 varieties globally, derived from both ancient and more recent seeds. Of course, not all of them are grown in Greece, but during a brief visit to an organic farmer’s market this week, we discovered at least six different ones, apart from the “basic”, outdoor-grown ones. Thus, we’ve compiled a list—an ode to the ultimate summer fruit.
The Black Currant
Or “fat-headed”, as it’s referred to in Messinia. We got it from a producer in Livadia, who assured us it was very sweet—and he was right. “You should know that anyone who has tasted it is blown away,” he said. He was doing a good job promoting his product, but it was also genuinely good. If you’re used to well-rounded, vibrant red tomatoes, this one might take you by surprise at first glance, but the taste will reward you if you prefer less acidity. This is a traditional, climbing bandala style variety, with an aromatic flesh. It’s “not very easy to find the seed nor easy to perpetuate”.
He recommended it to us for a salad.
The Black Tomato Mini
This variety is a deep, almost black, red in color. It has a thicker skin than most tomatoes, and its flavor is sweet and highly aromatic. The producer from Mires in Heraklion described it as “reminiscent of old tomatoes.” He advised us to first take in its aroma, then taste it. The black mini tomato contains seven times more lycopene than other tomatoes. This compound, which gives tomatoes their red color, is known for its antioxidant and anti-cancer properties. To get the same amount of lycopene from a typical red tomato, you would need to cook it.
The Yellow Tomato Matinis
This tomato is a popular choice for salads in the new wave of Athens restaurants. Instead of only offering the typical red variety, they’re now serving a range of different tomatoes. Its unique color comes from a mutation in one of the standard tomato genes that inhibits the production of lycopene, which is abundant in the black tomato. This is arguably the most photogenic tomato, with a taste that’s less acidic than red tomatoes and a milder flavor overall.
Pomodoro
Although the Aztecs originally called this fruit a “swollen fruit,” the Italians, upon discovering it wasn’t poisonous, praised its delicious flavor and incorporated it heavily into their cuisine. They gave the tomato a more delicate name: pomodoro, which translates to “golden apple.” This was due to the first varieties they encountered being yellow. In our region, we refer to the firm, thick-skinned, medium-sized, and long-necked tomatoes that resemble an egg as pomodoro. These tomatoes, which we found growing in ancient Corinth, have few seeds, lots of flesh, and a sweet flavor. They are a bright red color and are perfect for making homemade sauce. Below, I’ve included Frank Prisinzano’s tomato sauce recipe that we use in our own home. If you’re not a fan of a strong garlic flavor, this recipe might not be for you.
10-13 peeled garlic cloves
½ to 3/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil, or more if needed
800 grams of fresh tomatoes
2-3 teaspoons of dried oregano
1/4 to 1/2 cup of fresh parsley, plus a bit extra for garnish
3-4 fresh bay leaves
Salt
Begin by placing the garlic cloves in a large, wide skillet set over low heat. Crush them using a potato masher. After a few minutes, pour in the olive oil and continue to crush the garlic. Allow the garlic to cook until some pieces start to brown at the edges.
Next, add the whole tomatoes, making sure to remove the skins first. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring the sauce to a boil. At this point, you can break up and open the tomatoes with a wooden spoon or use a potato masher to mash them.
Add the oregano, fresh parsley, and bay leaves. Stir everything together and let the sauce boil until most of the water has evaporated and the sauce has thickened. Season with a bit of salt to taste. Before serving, remember to remove the bay leaves. Spoon the sauce over cooked pasta or mix it in. Garnish with some chopped fresh parsley and crushed red pepper, if you like, and enjoy your meal.
The Batala Tomato
The Batala tomato, known for its large size, is a signature variety from Brayron. It has been cultivated in the region since the 19th century. Its name comes from the Turkic word “batallis”, meaning ungenerous or coarse. The Batala is distinguished by its pronounced ridges. As Stelios Harkiolakis, a trusted grocer from Bostani in Pagrati (and supplier to some of the best restaurants in Athens) says, “the ridges on a tomato are a good criterion for choosing a tomato, it’s rare for a tomato with ridges not to be good”.
The Pink Tomato
The Pink tomato is white-seeded, buttery, and sweeter than its red counterpart. It makes a wonderful salad ingredient; ideally, you can use it to make an Italian caprese with mozzarella and basil leaves (or pesto). However, its skin is thin and delicate, so handle it with care during transportation to avoid any damage.
Nevertheless, the producer from Heraklion advised us to pack it tightly into the baking tray to prevent it from crumbling during baking, promising us “the sweetest stuffed pasta”. We managed to find a variant from Heraklion, and from Fates as well.
We discovered the aforementioned tomato varieties at the organic farmers’ market in Kifissia (Kokkinara 80), which is the largest in Athens. However, they can also be found in well-stocked grocery stores.
This article was previously published in the print version of LiFO.
.
