48 hours in Sparta
For countless years, we bypassed Sparta, never giving it a second thought. Our destinations always lay elsewhere, never once did we feel compelled to explore it. After all, it’s not typically viewed as a tourist hotspot, unless of course, you’re planning a visit to Mystras – correct? That was my impression too. Until our motorbike broke down on our way back from Elafonisos. And so, unexpectedly, we found ourselves in Sparta.
First day
Sparta – the historical adversary of Athens, which triumphed in the renowned Peloponnesian War, leaving a lasting impression on our school years – was abandoned towards the end of the 6th century AD. The city’s location, coupled with its insufficient fortifications, was believed to leave it susceptible to invasions and sieges.
The founding of Monemvasia and the subsequent migration of its population to Sicily, as detailed in the Chronicle of Monemvasia, led to the once iconic city of antiquity falling into desolation and obscurity.
It was King Otto who decided to “resurrect” the city. Known for his fondness for “past glories”, he made the decision in 1834 to not only establish Athens as the capital of Greece, but also to rebuild Sparta.
The Laconian capital was the first city of the newly formed Greek state to be designed according to the Hippodamian urban system. It was situated roughly where ancient Sparta once stood, a location rich in regional antiquities.
The reconstruction of modern Sparta dealt the final blow to Mystras, as its population gradually migrated away. On 1 January 1857, Sparta officially became the administrative centre of the region.
The city’s design, marked by its large squares and wide streets, is largely attributed to the Bavarian Friedrich Stauffert. However, some maintain that it was the work of Eduard Schaubert, the architect responsible for the urban planning of both Athens and Piraeus.
The city’s neoclassical heritage is evident at every turn. Numerous intriguing buildings have survived, including the town hall, the archaeological museum that houses the history of ancient Sparta, the old courthouse, and a considerable number of private residences.
Begin your exploration with a visit to the renowned Statue of Leonidas, the work of sculptor Vasos Falireas. Stroll down Constantine Paleologos Avenue, lined with its characteristic century-old palm trees, and admire the neoclassical and stone buildings – the finest work of Epirus and Lagadian craftsmen.
Also on your path, you’ll stumble upon the Koumandarean Gallery. Though small, it boasts a fascinating collection of works by Western European painters. The gallery functions as an annex of the National Gallery, periodically hosting exhibitions.
After enjoying a coffee in the central square, under the gaze of the imposing town hall, consider a visit to the Archaeological Museum of Sparta. Additionally, the Museum of the Olive and Greek Olive Oil is worth exploring. This modern establishment presents the history of olive cultivation and olive oil production in Greece.
Given the historical significance of ancient Sparta, one might expect extensive archaeological sites. However, earthquakes, Goths, and the development of the new city have left little intact. The acropolis of ancient Sparta and the “tomb of Leonidas” on its outskirts are still worth a visit.
For those eager for more exploration, remember that just five kilometres away lies the renowned Mystras. This castle-city, built in 1249 by William II Villehardouin, is one of the most important Late Byzantine cities.
It’s recommended to enter from the second entrance and start from Pano Chora. Here, you’ll find the castle, the Palaiologan palaces, and Hagia Sophia, the most significant monuments of Mystras. Alternatively, you could start from the bottom and work your way up to Pano Chora, though you might end up quite exhausted, like some locals I know – but you wouldn’t know them.
Day Two
.
There exist magical places only known to those who live nearby. In an age where everything is a few keystrokes away, this may sound unconvincing. However, try searching for Palliocene. Even under its official name, there’s scarce online information about the archaeological site of Castro Geraki, situated thirty-five kilometres from Sparta.
During the Frankish occupation, the Principality of Achaia was divided into 12 baronies, including Geraki. French baron Guy de Nivelet was appointed ruler, and according to the “Chronicle of Moray”, his son, Jean de Nivelet, conceived the idea of building a castle-city on their land – no small feat.
The chosen site lay next to Parnon, on the lofty hill of Paleokastro. Around 1210, the castle was established on the hill’s northern summit, housing the church of St. George within its walls.
Descending the hillside, you’ll find the medieval settlement, comprising forty houses and eight churches.
Zoodochos Pigi, Agia Paraskevi, Agia Ekaterini, and Agios Dimitrios are among the churches whose names we recognize. Many of them still boast remarkable, well-preserved iconography.
Perched on the northern summit of the hill are the “Pera Churches” (Theofania, Taxiarches), along with several residences. A trail connects these peaks, with the Church of Prophet Elias standing halfway along the path.
Positioned ideally to oversee and control the entire surrounding area, the castle was situated between the fortresses of Mystras and Monemvasia. Communication was facilitated through a network of friars. The castle was presumably inhabited by the local ruler, his family, and regional officials.
The Franks held control over the castle until their defeat at the Battle of Pelagonia in 1259. For nearly two centuries, until the Fall of Constantinople to Mohammed the Conqueror, the Castle of Geraki was primarily occupied by notable Byzantines. It later became a point of contention between the Venetians and the Turks.
The settlement of Paliogerakos was abandoned in the 15th century and has remained uninhabited since. This fact makes it a rarity, if not a treasure: a Byzantine settlement untouched by later interventions, retaining its original form.
Today, thanks to restoration efforts funded by an NSRF program, it serves as an exemplary archaeological site. It is well worth a visit, but be prepared for a long walk – so wear suitable footwear if you want to avoid ending the tour with worn-out espadrilles, like my boss did. An important note: currently, admission is free.
After journeying back to the Middle Ages, you’re likely to be tired. The best course of action is to follow in the footsteps of the original settlers and make your way two kilometers to the modern-day village of Eagle.
This picturesque cliffside village is renowned for its masterfully crafted kilim houses. With grand stone houses of high aesthetic value and significant Byzantine churches, Geraki boasts one of those town squares that visitors seek out in charming mountain villages, offering a place to unwind and escape the hustle and bustle of city life. Enjoy a break in a traditional café, and have a beer on my behalf.
