Culloni sardines, Fusces, Skiza. This is the taste of the Aegean
When we think of capturing the essence of summer, our minds might instinctively drift to the taste of the Greek archipelago: the tamarind left on our lips by the divine wave, the sardines of Kalloni Bay in Lesvos, the spinach of Kalymnos, the salted minoules of Karpathos, or the fur of Paros. However, the flavors of the small, landlocked islands in the middle of the sea may be even more potent, such as the tomato juice of Milos, the arsenic of Naxos, the musk of Mykonos, or the lusa of the Cycladic Islands.
The sardines of Kalloni are a pure, primeval delicacy of the Aegean, tasted by humans for hundreds of thousands – perhaps even millions – of years. They were enjoyed even before the discovery of fire and the art of cooking. The small fish of August and September, the poppies that tumble into the Gulf of Kalloni, and the cantaloupe salt that lingers in the small rock cavities at this time of year, combine to create a unique flavor profile. A few hours is all it takes for these elements to meld together, bringing forth the fresh taste of nearly raw sardines, perfectly paired with aniseed-scented ouzo, a tradition dating back to the time of Sappho and the eternal spring of Lesvos.
The Aegean sun has a transformative effect, preserving the flavor and beauty of things for the foreseeable future.
Bubbles, a tasty delight of the southern Sporades, are a peculiar creature. Few can identify this “sea stone” caught in the nets as a living organism rather than an ordinary crustacean. But any doubts are dispelled when the bubble is split open on the deck of the fishing trawler, revealing its golden-coral flesh. Tasting it raw is like experiencing a mouthful of the sea, bursting like a wave in your mouth.
These days, you’re more likely to find bubbles preserved in seawater, like spinach, in sealed bottles with cork, secured with tamarind. This method of preservation is still practiced by the oyster fishermen of Leros, but primarily in Kalymnos, their place of origin. Here, the sponge divers, while fishing in the Barbary Islands, would preserve the bubbles they collected alongside the sponges in seawater, stored in empty resin bowls they carried for this purpose. Served with oil and lemon, the strong iodine taste of the bubbles in this spinach-like form is a testament to the island’s character.
Seasoned with salt, the rich, seasonal fish are “cooked” and preserved. At the start of spring, a small fish known as the narrow finch keeps the fishermen of the Carpathian Sea busy.
Every year, fishermen must identify the spots where large schools of mint fish will gather to lay their eggs on sandy seabeds, in relatively shallow waters.
The tension was particularly high in the village of Spoa on Karpathos Island, and its port, Agios Nikolaos. This is where boats set sail for the famed mint fishing grounds of Mylatha. The abundant catch is promptly salted in large cans, layer upon layer of fish and salt, until they are “cooked” and ready. After being cleaned and dressed with olive oil, they become a magnet for food merchants. We learned in Karpathos that people travel great distances to savour the sardines of Koumbani at the café and restaurant in Spoa.
The Aegean sun has a transformative effect on things, preserving their taste for the near future and their beauty for eternity. What would the divine landscapes of the northern and southern Sporades and Cycladic Islands be without the dramatic interplay of light and shadow? They would be nothing more than shapeless mounds of limestone. Yet the flavours of colies, mackerel, and horse mackerel would be lost if they weren’t expertly prepared: punctured along the back, generously salted (left in the sea while cleaning others), sprinkled with orange zest and oregano, drizzled with quality vinegar, and then left to bask in the sun for several hours (or until the next day if it’s cloudy) to tenderise them. After a light grilling over hot coals, a process known as “foreboding”, the fur – a popular appetiser in Paros – takes on a smoky flavour (complemented with lemon, oregano, or truffle), which makes it an ideal accompaniment for souma, a local spirit.
The sun lends its magic to the tomato soumi, a staple in Milos’ culinary scene, enhancing its flavor. This flavor is then transferred to the simple slice of bread known as “skiza”, smeared with apple paste and oil – a favorite snack among school children. It also finds its way into the “skizakia”, a glass of xomachos, which is often paired with a cup of wine upon returning home from a day’s work. From fried potatoes with tomato soup to Vassilis’ garlic-infused dishes at the “flour mill”, the sun-kissed tomato soumi is a key ingredient. During the season when sun-dried tomatoes are plentiful, they are placed in tubs and squeezed three times a day. After three days, they are drained, the skins and seeds are saved for next year’s planting, and the pulp is placed in a pillowcase to drain. It is then spread out in a baking dish, salted, and left under the sun for another three days to “cook”, with regular stirring throughout the day.
Meanwhile, in the inland routes of Naxos – some leading to the mysterious kurus in the deserts – cheese processing takes place under the cool shade of apple trees. We had the privilege of witnessing this at John and Maria’s family dairy, located near the ancient Temple of Gyroula, providing us with an insight into the secrets of Naxos’ cheese-making tradition. The cheese is allowed to mature slowly in the shade, enhancing its deliciousness. For this Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheese, a mere four months of maturation doesn’t suffice; it yearns for more time. Six months, or even better, an additional year, coated in olive oil and wrapped in a towel, leads to a delightful surprise.
Indeed, the passage of time is the secret to the allure of these cheeses.
Tyrovolia, a simple curd cheese, is fermented twice over several days – once by human hands and once by natural fungi. This process transforms it into the spicy Kopanisti, a PDO soft cheese from Mykonos. Served on warm bread with a caper or a sun-dried tomato, it offers a taste of the island’s traditional cuisine, its flavors as unique and elusive as the island paths themselves.
Pigs have always been a staple of traditional Cycladic cuisine, and the louza sausage is a flavorful reminder of this history. In Tinos, you’ll often see these sausages hanging in butcher shops, where they’re expertly sliced thin to tantalize the taste buds.
Louza is a delicacy not just in the Cyclades, but also in Cyprus, where it’s known as “ludza”. Each island has its own unique twist on the sausage: Mykonos adds trubi, Syros uses cinnamon cloves, Cyprus prefers a smoky flavor, and Tinos opts for wine. In Tinos, the pork fillets are salted for three days and nights, then marinated in red wine for a fortnight. A rub of spices (allspice, cloves, pepper) and oregano is then applied, before the sausage is encased in beef intestine and left to cure. This lengthy process results in one of the most flavorful sausages in all of Greece.
