In the Stani of Kountouras, the oldest dairy shop in Piraeus
Nestled in Korai Square, on the ground floor of the Ionideion School and facing the majestic Municipal Theatre, sits the historic dairy and confectionery shop, The Stani of Kountouras.
The shop’s history begins with Stelios Kountouras, a refugee from Smyrna who settled in Piraeus after the Asia Minor Catastrophe. Stelios, who had always been involved in the dairy business, decided to continue his trade in Piraeus. In 1933, he opened his first shop, “Agnotis”, in Nikita, where he sold milk, yogurt, and a unique dessert, kaimaki. This special treat was made from butter extracted from milk, kneaded, baked, and served with a sprinkle of cinnamon and a dollop of butter.
Back then, Villa and Marathon were teeming with herds, making it easy to source high-quality milk. Eventually, the shop relocated to Korai Square, where it remains today under the same name. It’s hard to find a Piraeus resident who isn’t familiar with Stani or hasn’t stopped by its tables.
After Stelios, his sons Sotiris and Kostas took over the business. Today, the third generation, granddaughters Argyro and Maria, along with their husbands George Bano and Takis Lappas, steer the ship. Despite the passage of decades and significant changes, Stani has largely stayed the same, retaining its authenticity in a way few shops have managed.
Nothing enters Stani’s workshop by chance. Located at the back of the shop, it is filled with the rich, sweet aroma of cream and pure butter, which gives their sweets a distinctive flavor. And when we say sweets, we’re talking about all the treats we loved as children.
As soon as you step through the door, you can sense this. The room is filled with some of the most stunning Danish-designed tables I’ve ever seen, featuring solid wood, metal accents, and green Tinos marble tops. These tables are paired with simple, matching wooden and leather chairs.
Each table is adorned with a menu bearing the shop’s logo and an illustration of old Piraeus. Surrounding you are vintage refrigerators and a service counter that partially conceals the kitchen. An old menu hangs on the wall. The space is beautiful, simple, clean, and bright, without any pretense. It’s a place where you immediately know what to expect. There are no surprises, just a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere.
It reminds me of the shops you find in quaint country towns, where the staff knows you by name and brings your usual order to the table without you even having to ask.
George and Takis, who have been integral parts of the shop for thirty-five years, consider it their second home.
In conversation with them, you quickly grasp their deep affection for Stani and their profound respect for its storied past. Takis, one of the shop’s pastry chefs, is particularly adept at crafting galaktobureko, syrupy pastries, and kaimaki ice cream.
We discuss the challenges of running a business for such a long period of time. They reminisce about customers they’ve seen mature over the years and customers who now bring their own children to the shop. They fondly remember the square, once bustling with life, and eagerly anticipate its revival once the metro construction is completed and the area’s charm is restored.
Listening to them dream about the future is heartening. I’m equally pleased to learn that they’ve remained loyal to the traditional recipes inherited from their grandfather from Smyrna, insisting on using only the purest ingredients, even if it means higher production costs and increased workload. They source milk and butter from a farm in Karpenisi or other small producers they know personally, and procure cream from sheep’s milk, paying a premium to ensure the best quality kaimaki. They also use salep from Florina to enrich the texture of their kaimaki, making it chewier and more fragrant.
Nothing in Stani’s workshop is left to chance. Located at the back of the shop, the workshop exudes the rich, sweet aroma of cream and pure butter, which lends their sweets a unique flavor. By sweets, we’re referring to those delightful treats that we loved as children: the silky, aromatic cream and crunchy pastry of galaktobureko, the heart-warming syrupy rhubarb, the fragrant orange pie, the authentic Smyrnaean ekmek, baklava served with a scoop of kaimaki ice cream, samali, walnut pie, and savarin or baba that melts like foam in your mouth.
But that’s not all. For those partial to white cream, there’s always the almond paste, while die-hard chocolate lovers won’t be able to resist the mousse. The classic ‘mum’s trunk’ and lemon tart, with its crispy, buttery base and flavorful custard, are also standout options.
Stani’s traditional sweets may transport you back to a simpler time, with their deliciously rich flavors and nostalgic charm. But for me, it’s the pure, unadulterated dairy treats that truly steal the show.
A visit to Stani wouldn’t be complete without sampling their rice milk or cream. The light, airy rice pudding, with its perfectly cooked rice and subtly sweet cream, is an absolute must-try. Taki suggested I add a scoop of kaimaki ice cream to the mix, and it was a suggestion well worth taking. The blend of flavors and textures created a dish so delectable and refreshing, I didn’t want it to end.
If you’re after a quick pick-me-up, try the pan-fried yogurt topped with authentic thyme honey and walnuts, or the caramel cream. Let the flavors swirl around your mouth, bringing a burst of joy and warmth with every bite. For home, pick up some sheep’s milk and strained yogurt to enjoy in a multitude of ways, and some fresh butter to enhance your desserts or to add a rich, buttery aroma to your pasta dishes.
To fully immerse yourself in the history and spirit of Stani, I recommend arriving in Piraeus early in the morning to enjoy breakfast there. Don’t expect a menu filled with eggs, pancakes, and towering cakes. Instead, order warm milk, bread, butter, and honey, and let your day start in the simplest and most beautiful way.
Sometimes, in our quest for unique, gourmet, or exotic dishes, we overlook the simple flavors that hold their own charm and beauty. After all, if you were in Pelion or Zagori, this is how you’d start your day. So why not try this simple pleasure in the city once in a while?
The Stani, Pl. Korai, Piraeus, 210 4174235
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