48 hours in Messolonghi
For us, Mesolonghi was like the wind: we knew it was there but had never seen it. For years, we had travelled to and from Yiannina, yet never had the chance to stop and explore Mesolonghi – it remained an undiscovered place for us.
It was Alkis who suggested we take a break in the capital of Aitoloakarnania on our return from Preveza. He insisted, somewhat grumpily, that it was our “duty” to visit the Holy City.
As doting parents, we decided to humour him: during one journey, we pulled into Mesolonghi, found a park to stop at, settled into a couple of chairs in the square, sipped our frappes, and let him explore with his cell phone as his guide.
The exploration was a success and he returned brimming with excitement, proposing a new idea: to return to Mesolonghi as soon as we could to explore further. Which we did – although not quite as promptly as he might have liked.
Copies and original works inspired by Mesolonghi can be found at the Museum of History and Art, located in the old town hall, and at the Moshandreou Gallery of Contemporary Art, which also houses an art-focused open library.
First day
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If you imagine Mesolonghi to be a city of “silence at the edge of the grave”, as Dionysios Solomos so vividly described in his “Free Besieged”, you should know that nearly two centuries after the heroic Exodus, which occurred at dawn on April 11, 1826, Mesolonghi is a vibrant city surrounded by lagoons. This is reflected in its Italian name, derived from “mezzo/messo” and “laghi”, meaning “place in the middle of lakes”. The city remains respectful of its glorious past while looking towards the future.
A living tribute to the history of the Holy City of Mesolonghi is the Garden of Heroes, an area that served as a cemetery during the sieges of 1822 and 1825-26.
Ioannis Kapodistrias envisioned a garden dedicated to the city’s defenders. He proposed the collection and burial of the fighters’ remains in a tomb, for which an architectural contest was announced. It was Otto who ultimately brought the assassinated governor’s dream to fruition, inaugurating the Mound of Heroes in 1838. This included the tomb of Markos Botsaris, adorned with the emotive sculpture, “Daughter of Greece,” by renowned French sculptor David d’Angers. The sculpture, however, faced numerous acts of vandalism, making its survival a challenge. Today, a 1916 replica by Greek sculptor Georgios Bonanos stands in Messolonghi, while the restored original is housed at the National Historical Museum in Athens.
Among the various monuments, seek out the bust of Alexander Mavrokordatos, the imaginative Philhellenes Monument, and the marble statue of Philhellenic poet Lord Byron by Tinos sculptor Georgios Vitalis. Lord Byron, who died in Messolonghi in 1824, was honored by the locals with thirty-seven cannon shots – one for each year of his life.
Art and historical artifacts inspired by Messolonghi can be found at the Museum of History and Art, located in the old town hall.
Prominent figures such as Trikoupis and Kostis Palamas resided in Messolonghi, so it’s not surprising that their homes have been converted into museums, filled with personal belongings and other memorabilia.
The area’s most significant attraction, however, is the natural landscape. The Messolonghi-Aitoliko lagoons are among Europe’s most crucial wetlands, forming a 616,000-acre national park that’s part of the European Ecological Network Natura 2000. It’s home to at least 280 bird species, 23 reptile species, caretta-caretta turtles, and numerous mammals and fish.
Whether you choose to explore by bicycle or car, make sure to visit Tourlis. This small island is home to pelades, wooden fishermen’s huts on stilts that, along with the wooden piers where traditional boats are moored, create a magical scene – especially at sunset.
At the end of your journey, you’ll discover the Black Saltworks and the Salt Museum. Here, you can delve into the history of salt pans, discover the many uses of salt, and marvel at an impressive collection of over 1,500 salt cellars, ranging from the 19th century to the present day.
Take a dip in the tranquil, shallow waters of Turlisa’s organised sandy beach, where birds fly overhead and the local egg crow frequents the surrounding tavernas. Don’t miss the opportunity to sample the world-renowned PDO product, which was once so coveted it was exported directly to the Sultan’s harem during the Turkish occupation.
Day Two
Just ten kilometers from Messolonghi lies not the famous Italian city, but a charming smaller counterpart known as “Little Venice”. This nickname belongs to Aetoliko, a quaint island nestled in the heart of the Aetoliko-Messolonghi lagoon. Connected to the mainland since 1848 by two stone arched bridges, it was once crisscrossed by canals, earning it comparisons to the capital of the Galician Republic, before the damming of 1969.
I must admit, I was unaware of Aetoliko’s existence until recently when stunning drone-captured photos began circulating on social media, catapulting the Nenetian State – another pet peeve – onto lists of the most “photogenic” destinations.
Aetoliko is a tranquil, old-world gem, nestled within a unique ecosystem and preserving remnants of its past grandeur as a major commercial hub of the region, complete with its own fleet of ships.
Despite the economic downturn brought about by the Rios – Antirrio ferry, this little island remains vibrant and densely populated.
While Aitoliko may not be large enough for extended vacations due to limited accommodation options, it is a perfect destination for day trips.
If you’re a museum enthusiast, make sure to visit the Folklore Museum, housed in an old olive oil mill. Additionally, the Centre for Printmaking Arts – Vasso Katraki Museum is a must-see, as the acclaimed engraver was born and raised on the island.
Another noteworthy site is the Church of Panagia (Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary). The church houses an icon of the Virgin Mary, believed to be the work of the evangelist Luke – though this is debatable as he is credited with creating more than thirty Virgin Mary images, while tradition suggests he only sculpted three. The church also features a precious 15th century gold-encrusted epitaph, which could be even older.
The church’s walls and icons have undoubtedly witnessed a great deal. It was here that George Karaiskakis was tried for treason by Alexander Mavrokordatos on April 1, 1824.
The outspoken general was found guilty but was allowed to leave to prevent upheaval in the city. As he exited, he reportedly told Mavrokordatos, “You wrote the accusation on a piece of paper, but I will write it on your forehead”. He later apologized, and the government in Nafplio reinstated him, allowing him to continue his fight, albeit with his usual colorful language, until the end.
While all this is fascinating, there’s another essential activity in Aetoliko: eating! Visit the tavern “The Monoma”, located in a charming, preserved stone building with a cool courtyard. Here, you can savor the local delicacies such as eel, petali, and prawns, all reaped from the region’s bountiful waters. You’ll thank me later.
