48 hours in Leonidio
Our first visit to Leonidio was before we had set foot in any of its surrounding areas. We had just acquired a car and were staying in one of the most picturesque villages of Parnonas, Kosmas Kynourias. From there, we made a spontaneous trip to the capital of Kynouria for a coffee, driven more by curiosity than prior knowledge of the charming little town.
On a subsequent visit during a crisp Kosmas winter, we found ourselves sipping iced ouzo, soaking up the sun on the large pebbles of Plaka beach, and gazing out at the Myrtaean Sea. This harbor of Leonidio offered us one of those moments that we still count among the highlights of our travels. It was then that we decided it was time to explore Leonidio itself. The journey from the main road answered our question of why Leonidio had remained an unexplored gem, while we had visited other, less captivating, destinations.
Reaching Leonidio requires determination, skillful driving, and a tolerance for endless twists and turns. The “safe place” of Kolokotronis remained untouched by Turkish influence – after all, there was no land road for them to tread. This is why Leonidio remained a hidden secret. Today, it retains its original charm and has been recognized as a traditional settlement. It boasts dozens of mansions and towers from the pre-revolutionary era and 19th-century neoclassical buildings – a quaint town nestled at the base of the towering Kokkinovrachos.
While you may not be familiar with the Tsakonian language, chances are you’ve tasted Tsakonian eggplants. The fertile plain of Leonidion, known as the Garden of Dionysus, is where these deliciously sweet eggplants are grown, along with citrus fruits and other vegetables. The Tsakonian Leonidion eggplant is one of the Greek PDO products.
First day
As you approach Leonidio, you’ll come across a sign in Tsakonian that reads: “Kaur’ ekanate Agelides” (Welcome to Leonidio). Centuries of isolation have preserved the Tsakonian language, a living vestige of the Doric dialect spoken by the Laconians. Today, it is only used by a small number of elderly people. It is considered endangered, is on the UNESCO list, and is possibly the oldest living language in Europe.
Oscar Wilde once said, “Beauty is self-evident,” and this certainly rings true for Leonidio. A simple stroll through the village streets is enough to fill a visitor’s eyes with beauty.
Stately mansions, built before the Revolution and following the village’s destruction by Ibrahim in 1826, stand tall and proud. Many have been restored and some are even open to the public. These architectural wonders feature paved and pebbled courtyards, stone fountains, tiled loggias, and intricately painted ceilings, all characteristic of Tsakonian architecture. Interestingly, these mansions were not just symbols of wealth, but also served as defensive structures, complete with battlements and traps. The most notable example of this is the Tsikaliotis Tower (1808), an architectural gem of the region that will leave you in awe of its design once you step inside.
You might not be familiar with the Tsakonian language, but it’s likely you’ve heard of the famous Tsakonian eggplants. Grown in the fertile Leonidion plain, also known as the “Garden of Dionysus”, these eggplants are renowned for their exceptional sweetness. Alongside citrus fruits and other vegetables, these eggplants are a Greek PDO product, cultivated in abundance in this region.
Having whetted your appetite, I’m sure you’re eager to sample authentic Chakchi cuisine. For this, you’ll need to head to the mountains. Vaskina, just fifteen kilometres from Leonidio, is a half-hour drive due to the challenging roads. In this mountainous livestock village, home to around fifty people and their animals, you’ll find the “Taverna Kokotas”, one of the most authentic eateries in Parnonas. Almost everything here is homemade, including goat’s milk ice cream. Just make sure to arrive hungry, you’ll want to try everything.
If the drive has left you a bit frazzled, or if you’d rather have seafood or have non-adventurous eaters in your group, the coastal “Fisherman’s Tavern” in Plaka is ready to welcome you. Enjoy fresh fish, local oil, and a heaping plate of eggplant. And don’t forget to take a swim before your meal, because you might not have the energy to afterwards…
Day Two
What better way to start your day than with a climb at Red Rock? While I might not be the most athletic person, I can confidently say that Leonidio is known as the “climbing capital of the Peloponnese.” This is due to the vast and diverse selection of climbing routes available. Throughout the year, both Greek and international climbers flock to the town, contributing to the modest, yet steadily growing, tourism in the region.
If you’re not in a hurry to hit the Red Rock, consider a visit to the cliff-hanging Elonis Monastery. This is an equally rewarding experience. Located seventeen kilometers from Leonidio on the road to Kosmas, it’s easily accessible by car – no special equipment required.
The monastery, which played a significant role in the Revolution of 1821, was founded in the 13th century. This was when an icon of the Virgin Mary of Vrefokratousa was miraculously discovered on the mountain. However, it was destroyed by robbers in 1755 and later rebuilt in the early 19th century. In August 2016, the icon, along with the votive offerings, was stolen, causing a major uproar among the faithful. After 38 days, the police recovered the icon. The then Minister of Public Order, Byron Polydoras, personally returned it to the monastery in a public procession.
As you continue your journey, you’ll reach the charming village of Kosmas, often referred to as the “balcony of Kynouria.” This head village is known for its “Lions,” the unique stone fountains in the central square. Enjoy a leisurely stroll under the plane trees, sip on a cup of coffee, and sample local products. If you’re feeling peckish, you won’t be disappointed by the dining options available.
For those who prefer the beach over the mountains, Poulithra is a must-visit. This quaint seaside village near Leonidio is one of those rare, charming “old-fashioned” places that are becoming increasingly hard to find. With its pristine, pebbled beaches, cozy tavernas and cafes, it’s the perfect spot to unwind and escape from the hustle and bustle of city life.
At the end of the village’s small harbor road, you’ll find the Apothiki, a delightful bar with great music and an unbeatable view. It’s the perfect place to end your day, staying open late in true old-school fashion. For me, having a drink there is always the first thing I do when I return to Leonidio.
Another beach worth visiting, though a bit remote yet now more accessible, is Fokiano. It’s one of the most stunning beaches of Myrtoo, enveloped in lush greenery, secluded, pebbly, with crystal-clear waters, two unobtrusive beach bars, and a handful of tavernas. When we visited, we practically had the place to ourselves, which is likely how autumn swimmers will find it. Can you imagine anything better?
As we say our heartfelt goodbyes to Leonidio, our attention is drawn to a sign that reads:
“Oreyi π’ ekanε xenε will sew pressa ts and will nιάρε πιάtere πλέteri. Alessi and others can molest the other Agelides.”
It loosely translates to: “Come here, stranger, you will see much and hear even more. Encourage others to visit Leonidio.”
